Santa Rosa Channel Islands National Park Part 2: the most underrated USA National Park we've been to yet!
Because there's no way to adequately describe our time on Santa Rosa Channel Islands in one post, here's part 2, the more detailed day by day written by Dan:
Day 1 - Arrival at Santa Rosa Island (Saturday)
The alarm went off at 545am. Ugh. Way too early. Trista and I slowly got up and around and took our final showers for the next several days. We had packed our packs the night before so it was just a matter of dragging ourselves out of bed and out to the car. We needed to be to the harbor by 7am for our 8am departure with Island Packers. For $120 round trip they were going to take us out to the island and back as well as transport our main packs. It is about a 2.5-3 hour ride to get out there. The boat ride itself ends up being something else. We stop multiple times along the way to whale watch and see several humpback and grey whales at different stops along the way. Amazing! We eventually reach the pier and are met by a park ranger who is there to give us some ground rules. All of it is pretty straight forward and we are on our 1.5 mile hike to the campsite.
 |
| Picture compliments of our campground friend, Daniel Hull |
My backpack is heavier than it should be as I have two boxes of wine sloshing around in the bottom of it. The journey out there is a walk along a cliffside with a spectacular ocean view which quickly became the norm. It is mostly uphill as the campsite sits in a valley to try and protect us as much as possible from the wind. I have to admit the hike to the campsite with all our stuff is probably the least pleasant part of the trip but very doable.
We wind our way along the path and eventually find our campsite. The view is spectacular.
We pitch our tent and store our food and decide to hike down to the beach. The beach is about a 1 mile hike to get to and then extends for miles. We find a place to sit, alone with the beach to ourselves, it is completely peaceful. Of course we brought some wine and I feel like the luckiest person in the world to be where I am, with Trista, soaking it all in. Before long it is time to head back to the campsite and eat dinner. We see our first sighting of a fox loafing his way through the campsite. The fox brings a smile to everyone's face. Tired from a long day we go to bed early and read before falling asleep.
Day 2 - Beach Hike (Sunday)
The plan for the day: go down to the beach and do about a 5-6 mile hike. For breakfast we have a favorite staple of our camping trips, Ramen. A nice hot bowl always helps to warm us up on a cold morning. This day is odd because there was almost no wind. 70 degrees feels fairly hot with no wind. The bad news is that the forecast for that night and the next day is wind and cold so we enjoy the sun as much as we can.
We walk down the beach for a couple of miles. Being the only ones out there on a pristine beach is an odd feeling.
As the tide recedes we explore a little farther down the beach. Mussels and sea urchins start to appear above the water line on previously submerged rocks and in tide pools. Seeing a mostly undisturbed ecosystem work is one of the more intriguing parts of the trip and this is a perfect example.
As the day wears on the wind starts to pick up. There had been fog in the distance all day but it started to creep over the mountains behind us, back in the direction of the campsite. Knowing the weather is supposed to turn for 24-36 hours or so we head back.
By the time we get back it is quite windy and cold. A few rounds of cards, some music and some Kathmandu Curry from the JetBoil rounds our our day. The night is really windy but little did we know the worst on that front is yet to come.
Day 3 - Torrey Pines/Zero Day/Wind Storm (Monday)
The original plan for this day is to take a zero and hide out in the campsite. It was supposed to be in the 50s, 35 mph sustained wind and cloudy. When we wake up however it is sunny, warm and fairly low wind. Odd. The other interesting thing happening is that the campsite is mostly turning over. This time of year the boat to Santa Rosa Island only runs every other day. So you can book your stay in two night increments. Most people only stayed two so mostly are packing their gear and we are largely getting new neighbors.
With the weather improved I decide I am going to hike, Trista decides to stay at the campsite and read. After another bowl of Ramen and some jerky I set off for Torrey Pines. It is basically a hike up to the top of one of the mountain features through one of the only groves of Torrey Pine trees that exist in the world. It's a flat hike out there and then a pretty steep path up and down. I manage to only lose the trail once and enjoy the peace of being in a place like that all by myself.
When I get back Trista reports enjoying some time to herself. We visit with our closest neighhbors, Dan and Sarah and find out we have quite a bit in common with them. They love to travel, and have been or are going to several as the same places we have been recently so we make easy conversation about those experiences and tips for our respective upcoming trips. Sarah is a nurse and Dan works in Radiology so they have plenty to talk about with regard to that as well.
As the day turns to night the wind returns with a vengeance. The wind storm we thought we might avoid is finally here. Before its even dark our neighbors tent gets completely destroyed. I wonder how bad it would feel to have your only shelter destroyed with a cold night of high wind coming and literally no way out of the situation. They end up putting large rocks in the four corners of their tent and sleeping inside the tent with broken poles anyways. I guess they really have no choice.
The night is completely crazy. Continuous wind of 30-40mph and I would guess the highest gusts 50mph+. I have never camped in wind that bad. Not even close. Thank god for the wind shelters. Even with them and our tent as far into it as possible every single huge wind gust wakes me up and makes me wonder if the tent is going to survive or if we are going to face the same fate as our neighbor. Luckily our tent survives.
Day 4 - Attempt to Reach East Point (Tuesday)
We awake after a fitful night of sleep to no wind and another beautiful day. The plan for the day is to hike as far as we can handle out to the eastern most point of the island. We know ahead of time we probably aren't going to make it as it is around a 15-16 mile round trip and since our last full day don't want to torture ourselves too much.
The hike itself is fairly uneventful. A fox walks right up to us like we are an old friend and literally stos right in front of Trista. I am amazed every time we see one how tame they are.
The first stop on the hike is to take a small detour to Black Rock. It is an outcropping of volcanic rock that juts out into the ocean and is surrounded by small sea caves and a beautiful cove. It's a good place to take a break and soak it all in again. Our sea lion friends are back playing in the ocean with each other.
From there the next stop is to get as close as allowed to Skunk Point. Skunk Point is a massive sand outcropping. It is home to a ton of sea lions and seals. Unfortunately it is also not currently legal to hike all the way out there as there is an endangered bird in the middle of nesting season. We get as close as we can and continue on.
We get back to camp. Because it's the last night we try to finish as much of the food and wine as we could so we don't have to hike it out. We eat Chana Masala mixed with instant mashed potatoes and the rest of the wine. I could barely finish the food but there is really no option when you have to hike all your trash out. We play a few last rounds of cards and settle into bed for the night.
Day 5 - Adios Channel Islands, Whales, Sea Cave
The worst part of camping is packing all the gear into tiny bags. That is doubly true when you have to get it all in a backpack and hike it out. Luckily we did a good job planning food. All we have left are two freeze dried meals and two kind bars. We pick out Kung Pao Chicken for breakfast and slowly pack all our stuff up. One thing I am amazed by is our trash sack hardly has anything in it. Less than one pound. It makes me think a lot about how much waste we normally have at home. Even though we recycle I think about how we could do better.
The walk back to the pier is easier than the walk there. We ate and drank 20 pounds out of packs. Our legs are stronger after all the walking and it's mostly downhill. The stunning views make everything tolerable out here anyways.
The boat runs a little late but Trista, Tom, Dan, Sarah and I enjoy some laughs and getting to know each other a little bit more. No one seems to care a bit when the boat finally arrives around an hour late. The explanation from the boat operaters is the most Channel islands thing ever. They saw so many whales that it took longer than expected. Honestly I love the priorities. Island Packers was fantastic all around.
As we board the boat we buy a couple beers and settle in at the very back of the boat outside.
Day 2 - Beach Hike (Sunday)
The plan for the day: go down to the beach and do about a 5-6 mile hike. For breakfast we have a favorite staple of our camping trips, Ramen. A nice hot bowl always helps to warm us up on a cold morning. This day is odd because there was almost no wind. 70 degrees feels fairly hot with no wind. The bad news is that the forecast for that night and the next day is wind and cold so we enjoy the sun as much as we can.
We walk down the beach for a couple of miles. Being the only ones out there on a pristine beach is an odd feeling.
Eventually we find a nice spot to relax and lounge around for a few hours.
 |
| Island of the Blue Dolphins is actually based on one of the Channel Islands! So Trista definitely decided to read it again on the trip. |
We had assumed we wouldn't get a day this nice and did not bring swimsuits. The nice thing about being alone is it really didn't matter. We strip down as far as we feel comfortable in our underwear. The water itself is ice cold but feels incredible to get part way in every once in a while to cool off.
At some point Trista notices some heads popping out of the water checking us out. After a minute or two we realize these are either sea lions or seals. They seem just as interested to see us as we are then.
As the tide recedes we explore a little farther down the beach. Mussels and sea urchins start to appear above the water line on previously submerged rocks and in tide pools. Seeing a mostly undisturbed ecosystem work is one of the more intriguing parts of the trip and this is a perfect example.
 |
| Somehow this king crab made it's way to the island and gave some birds quite the tasty snack! |
As the day wears on the wind starts to pick up. There had been fog in the distance all day but it started to creep over the mountains behind us, back in the direction of the campsite. Knowing the weather is supposed to turn for 24-36 hours or so we head back.
By the time we get back it is quite windy and cold. A few rounds of cards, some music and some Kathmandu Curry from the JetBoil rounds our our day. The night is really windy but little did we know the worst on that front is yet to come.
Day 3 - Torrey Pines/Zero Day/Wind Storm (Monday)
The original plan for this day is to take a zero and hide out in the campsite. It was supposed to be in the 50s, 35 mph sustained wind and cloudy. When we wake up however it is sunny, warm and fairly low wind. Odd. The other interesting thing happening is that the campsite is mostly turning over. This time of year the boat to Santa Rosa Island only runs every other day. So you can book your stay in two night increments. Most people only stayed two so mostly are packing their gear and we are largely getting new neighbors.
With the weather improved I decide I am going to hike, Trista decides to stay at the campsite and read. After another bowl of Ramen and some jerky I set off for Torrey Pines. It is basically a hike up to the top of one of the mountain features through one of the only groves of Torrey Pine trees that exist in the world. It's a flat hike out there and then a pretty steep path up and down. I manage to only lose the trail once and enjoy the peace of being in a place like that all by myself.
When I get back Trista reports enjoying some time to herself. We visit with our closest neighhbors, Dan and Sarah and find out we have quite a bit in common with them. They love to travel, and have been or are going to several as the same places we have been recently so we make easy conversation about those experiences and tips for our respective upcoming trips. Sarah is a nurse and Dan works in Radiology so they have plenty to talk about with regard to that as well.
As the day turns to night the wind returns with a vengeance. The wind storm we thought we might avoid is finally here. Before its even dark our neighbors tent gets completely destroyed. I wonder how bad it would feel to have your only shelter destroyed with a cold night of high wind coming and literally no way out of the situation. They end up putting large rocks in the four corners of their tent and sleeping inside the tent with broken poles anyways. I guess they really have no choice.
 |
| Our poor neighbor's tent |
The night is completely crazy. Continuous wind of 30-40mph and I would guess the highest gusts 50mph+. I have never camped in wind that bad. Not even close. Thank god for the wind shelters. Even with them and our tent as far into it as possible every single huge wind gust wakes me up and makes me wonder if the tent is going to survive or if we are going to face the same fate as our neighbor. Luckily our tent survives.
Day 4 - Attempt to Reach East Point (Tuesday)
We awake after a fitful night of sleep to no wind and another beautiful day. The plan for the day is to hike as far as we can handle out to the eastern most point of the island. We know ahead of time we probably aren't going to make it as it is around a 15-16 mile round trip and since our last full day don't want to torture ourselves too much.
The hike itself is fairly uneventful. A fox walks right up to us like we are an old friend and literally stos right in front of Trista. I am amazed every time we see one how tame they are.
 |
| Giant pinecones! |
As we start going uphill traversing one of the spines on the island we talk about how much farther we want to go. When we still can't see the ocean after 5 miles that direction we give up and head back. We run into one of our new camp mates Tom on the way back. He's a school psychologist from Sacramento and is also attempting to make it to East Point. We find out later that night that he had actually made it most of the way there but personally didn't think the payoff is worth finishing it.
All along the route and island in general are beautiful wildflowers.
We get back to camp. Because it's the last night we try to finish as much of the food and wine as we could so we don't have to hike it out. We eat Chana Masala mixed with instant mashed potatoes and the rest of the wine. I could barely finish the food but there is really no option when you have to hike all your trash out. We play a few last rounds of cards and settle into bed for the night.
Day 5 - Adios Channel Islands, Whales, Sea Cave
The worst part of camping is packing all the gear into tiny bags. That is doubly true when you have to get it all in a backpack and hike it out. Luckily we did a good job planning food. All we have left are two freeze dried meals and two kind bars. We pick out Kung Pao Chicken for breakfast and slowly pack all our stuff up. One thing I am amazed by is our trash sack hardly has anything in it. Less than one pound. It makes me think a lot about how much waste we normally have at home. Even though we recycle I think about how we could do better.
The walk back to the pier is easier than the walk there. We ate and drank 20 pounds out of packs. Our legs are stronger after all the walking and it's mostly downhill. The stunning views make everything tolerable out here anyways.
I run into Tom on the way there and we spend a long time chatting about all kinds of things. One thing I think is neat is basically everyone out there are nice and interesting people. I guess a trip like that is sort of self selecting the same way some other destinations I won't name are self selecting for rude assholes.
The boat runs a little late but Trista, Tom, Dan, Sarah and I enjoy some laughs and getting to know each other a little bit more. No one seems to care a bit when the boat finally arrives around an hour late. The explanation from the boat operaters is the most Channel islands thing ever. They saw so many whales that it took longer than expected. Honestly I love the priorities. Island Packers was fantastic all around.
As we board the boat we buy a couple beers and settle in at the very back of the boat outside.
Once again on the way back we see several Humpback whales in a small group. I don't think I would ever tire of watching them.
We also go into, on the boat, one of the largest sea caves in the world. It's really impressive and the skills of navigating a not small boat through that is amazing.
Eventually we reach the harbor. We say goodbye to our new friends and goodbye to Channel Islands for now.
I hope you enjoyed reading about our adventure. If you have questions or want help trying to plan a trip out there Ias always, we are just a message away and would be happy to help. Happy travels!
Comments
Post a Comment